Cooling out a wet horse who winters out 24/7

As much as I tell myself I am not going to get my horse all sweated up I just can't seem to help but find myself galloping across the snow covered fields.  I always end up riding a steaming horse back to the barn. 

Now if you are like me and keep your horses out 24/7 you worry about turning out a wet horse and catching a chill in that cold winter air.

Let me say my horse does have a large shed he can get out of the wind and snow and access water and hay and bedding  anytime he wants. It is important horses have some where to go even if it is into a wood lot to get away from the wind.

Now back to the sweaty horse. The first thing I do is untack and dry my horse off with a towel.  Be sure to get their legs and go against the lie of the hair.  This allows more air to get at the coat and keeps hair from freezing together.  Next I give him a good curry, again the point of this is to prevent wet hair from lying flat agains the skin.  I work very hard and fast at this for two reasons; one it helps me warm up and two it is not good to have your horse standing around wet.  Next I throw a wool cooler on him.  Wool is excellent at wisking away the moisture from the coat and providing warmth at the same time.  Lastly I let him eat some hay.  Eating hay is vital in getting the gut working and generating heat.  I spend the hour or so cleaning up or handling some other horses and by the time I'm done the horse is dry enough to take the wool cooler off, and leave to their own devices.

My next blog I will give you some cost saving ideas on tack and equipment.  I know I certainly need them after my wife gets through with the Christmas shopping.

10 reasons to ride in a treeless saddle.

Everyone one loves top 10 lists.
#10 They are light weight and easy to lift.
#9   They allow your horse back to flex in all gaits.
#8   They don't restrict your horses shoulder.
#7   They can adjust to your horses back as his shape changes.
#6   They work on those hard to fit round backs.
#5   They can be used on multiple horses this means you save $.
#4   You can feel the movement of your horse and helps you get in sync with them.
#3   Sizing isn't as important so as we change the saddle can accomodate us.
#2   They are warm in the winter and cool in the summer
#1   They are comfortable for you and your horse!

If you are interested in trying out a treeless saddle check out my website and read about my free saddle trial offer, or host a clinic at your riding facility. 

Email me with any questions you may have

www.horselife@execulink.com and be sure to check out my website http://www.horselife.ca/

Thanks

Steve Wawryk

Bridleless Riding! Are you Crazy?

Last night I was surfing on Youtube and came across Clinton Anderson doing some Bridleless riding.  I don't impress all that easy but I watched in amazement as he put his horse through a reining pattern.  You may have also seen Stacey Westfall do this bridless and bareback, if you haven't you have got to check it out your jaw will drop.

Like a lot of you out there I am always looking for new ways to challenge me and my horse.  So this morning I went out and decided that me and my horse were going to learn to ride bridleless.  I consider myself a bold rider but not a stupid one so I am starting with baby steps.

I put on a Horselife Ropehalter/bitless bridle combo and a neck rope on my trusty but very forward and energetic horse Chopper.  For a neck rope I used a 6ft lead line tied around his neck. I jumped up on him bareback and rode him into the paddocks.  Now my horse works pretty good bitless so I figured I would have that as a backup in case things were not working with the neck rope and I could use it to reinforce what I was asking with the neck rope. 

when I first started out my horse wasn't quit sure what to think but after a short time and some reinforcing with the halter he was catching on.  I was able to do rollbacks, steer fine, back up and do  a decent stop( still could be better).  I was  very surprised how well it worked. I rode him in the same style I would if I had a saddle and bridle using the leg cues and shifting my weight and mimicking the had movements I do when neck reining.  I hope to be riding bridless by the time spring hits I will keep you posted on my progress. 

If you are looking for something new to try give bridless riding a shot.  Remember to work up to it and be safe.

If you are interested in buying a Horselife bitless bridle halter combo you can get them on ebay just type in horselife or email me and we can make other arrangements

www.horselife@execulink.com

Thanks

Steve Wawryk

No more frozen water tanks. Your horses will thank you.

For those of you that live in a warm climate you can skip over this tip but for those of us battling the winter weather and freezing temperatures you might want to read this. 

Keeping water from freezing is a real concern for many of us.  Horses need their water just as much in the winter as in the summer so it is vital we keep our stock tanks from freezing over.  Here are a few tips that might help in the battle of the frozen water tank.

If electricity is around try using a tank heater they simply plug in and heat the water enough to keep it from freezing, they come in several styles and are easy to use and maintain. They can get expensive to operate. Count on adding about $120.00 to your hydro bill for the season.  Another electrical device you can use is an aerator.  Basically it is a pump that sits in the bottom of your tank and blows water and air up to the surface the warmer water from the bottom and the movement created keeps the water from freezing , kind of like a creek that doesn't freeze over because of the constant motion.  This is less expensive then a heater but can get messy if the tank water level gets too low. 

Things you can do that don't require electricity are covering most of the tank with a board, only allowing a small section of the tank exposed so the horses can stick their muzzles in to get a drink. 

Place a floating object in the tank. The movement of the object along the surface can stimulate the water enough to keep it from freezing.

Insulate the tank.  You can do this by building an outshell around the tank with some plywood and 2x4's.  Fill the gap inbetwen the shell and the tank with foam insulation then build a lid with a small hole for the horses to drink out of.

Another way to insulate is to bury the tank below the frost line. This may or may be feasible depending on where you live and the depth of the frost line.

The idea I really like is to build a solar box around the tank.  You do this in the same manner as the insulating box but with a few little changes.  Firstly the tank should be painted black and a clear panel of plexiglass built into one side of the box.  The clear side should be facing the southern exposure.  Build a lid with a small opening for the horses to drink out of.  In order to retain most of the heat seal the box with a caulking sealant.

Good luck

Steve Wawryk

Don't let the snow keep you from riding.

Well the dreaded day had arrived.  I woke up this morning to wet snow on the ground and from what the forecast says I am in for some more.  You would think after some 42 years of ontario winters I would get use to it but unfortunatekly I am one of these people that grin and bare it for the next 4 months.  The only saving grace for me are those sunny winter days wen I can get out and gallop across a snow covered field.  One of my most memorable rides have been riding in the snow racing a jack rabbit along a fence line.  Needless to say after the rabbit grew tired of us he took off across the field and was gone in a blink of an eye.

Now riding in the snow can be a little tricky here are a few things to keep in mind when venturing out. 

• Avoid sharp turns and small circles, I have had horses fall on me because they caught some ice under the snow and slipped trying to lope a circle.
• Be aware of the footing, try to avoid ice as much as possible, don't be afraid to dismount and check the footing yourself.
• Stay off lakes and ponds, especially if you have winters with freeze and thaws, you don't want to break through the ice at best you will get very cold and wet , worst case an empty stall and place at the dinner table.
• Try to avoid deep snow drifts.  I once went out with a person who's horse got bogged down in deep snow and we spent 1/2 hour digging them out, the horse was cold and I was tired.
• Avoid getting your horse too wet, especially if they don't have a warm stall to dry off in.
• Improve your horses traction by keeping snow from balling up. One way to do this is allow the sole to grow thick so there isn't much of a pocket in the hoof.  Another trick is to spray PAM or any not stick cooking spray on the sole of the horses hooves.  This keeps the snow from sticking.
• Slow down and ride in areas you are familiar with.

Get out and have Fun

Steve Wawryk

Any questions or comments email me at horselife@execulink.com

I have a herd bound horse what do I do?

I deal with a lot of clients who telll me there horse is fine when out riding with a bunch of horses but get them out on their own and they come unglued.  This is referred to as being herd bound.  Horses become herd bound because they  lack the confidence and/or the desire to get out  and accept you as his leader. 

First thing you need to do is establish yourself as a leader on the ground, read any natural horsemanship book and it will give you all sorts of ways to do this.  When that trust and leadership has been established on the ground establish it in the saddle, again taking control of the horses feet is the way I like to do it. Once the horse has gained your trust and respect they will respect and trust that you will not lead them to harm and follow you.  This all sounds easier said then done and it is.  Alot of work goes into achieving this.  I will give you and exercise to try when you are out with a friend on your herd bound horse.  Ride together for a while then ask your friend to ride ahead 25 yards, your horse will start to act up but don't let them go with the horse until you say so.  Once they have settled meet up again. Now you ride ahead 25 yards.  Continue to do this increasing the distance and the speed and direction.  Soon both will be able to canter off in opposite directions without a fuss. 

Remember the key to a good horse is wet saddle blankets.

Have fun and be safe.

Steve Wawryk 

Blanket or not to Blanket, that is the question?

This is a topic that comes up amongst horse owners all the time and as far as I'm concerned ther is no definitive answer.  I think the only way to answer it is depends on your situation.  I personally don't blanket my horse, I believe going au naturel is the best way for me and my horse.   In southern ontario we have cold damp winters with lots of snow sleet and icy weather.  Horses need to get out of this weather so for me a large run in with fresh water, bedding and free access to hay and some room to run around is all he needs.  I don't show or do a lot of ring work in the winter and only ride during the day on weekends.  I try not to get my horse to sweaty but if I do I towel dry him and walk him out maybe tie him up inside the run in with a blanket on to help cool him out. When I am satisfied he won't get a chill I turn him loose to do as he pleases. 
     Now if I  did ring work 3-4 days a week and stalled my horse I may want to blanket and clip him.  This will save you a lot of time trying to cool out your horse. 
Bottom  line do what you have to do to keep your horse from being sweaty, wet and cold. Horses are equipped naturally to deal with this given the chance to reach appropriate shelter but if we take them way out of their natural element then we must intervene to the appropriate measure.
Barns are for people not animals.

My best riding tip. Look where you want to go.

Along with running a tack company I also give riding lessons.  I like to call the style of riding I teach "Real Life Riding". You see my lessons are a little different then most. I teach people to ride on their own horses at their facility.  By giving this sort of lesson I have the opportunity to see all sorts of riders and horses and various levels of skill and training.  I often get called by people who have been taken riding lessons at a stable for a year or two and finally have gone out and bought their own horse.  Most often they don't have a riding arena or ring to work in but just want to ride around their farm.  For some it is the first time riding a non school horse.  Now sometimes things work out great and the horse cooperates other times not so much.  I often end up getting up on the horse myself to see just how much the horse knows.  As long is the horse is safe it really doesn't matter how much it knows because I want to teach the rider to train their own horse.  This may sound like a lot to ask of some new riders but I always tell them every time you interact with your horse on the ground or in the saddle you are training them. 

I teach riders proper seat techniques and the usual walk trot canter ques but I also give tips on how to deal with a horse that wants to bold,rear, buck, bock or do the naughty things horses some times do.

Often I am giving a lesson out in a pasture with the nearest fence being 100metres away so the horse can pretty much go wherever it wants to go.  There are no arena walls or rails to help contain or direct the horse.  One of the most common complaints I hear is My horse won't go where I want him to go.  Often the rider is just going around aimlessly, a passenger for where the horse wants to take them.  My answer to this problem is simple, Look where you want to go.  Often people are looking down at their horse or have no idea where they want to ride too.  You will be amazed how easy it is to direct your horse by simply looking where you want to go.  If you don't believe me try this at home. With your horse walking a straight line quickly turn your head to the right ride towards a direction or object.  Be clear about where you want to go.  Now look and see which way your horse tips his nose I'll bet it is to the right.  Follow up with the appropriate que to drive the horse in that direction. You can practice this at all gaits and even use this to help your horse turn more quickly or even spin.

Riding a horse isn't that much  different than driving a car.  If you look at the telephone poll at the side of the road thats where your car will end up going.

Simple know where you want to go and look in that direction, your horse will do the rest. 

Hard to catch horses? Take the long way home.

This summer I was extremely busy and did not have as much time for riding as I'd have liked.  For a while I was getting on my horse maybe 2 times a month, not a lot of riding.  As the summer progressed I found it harder and harder to catch my usually very cooperative gelding.  He runs on about 20 acres of pasture with hills, creeks, gullies and trees; a perfect place to keep a horse. Unfortunately along with the ideal pasture comes a multitude of ways a horse can easily avoid being caught. 

So after a session where it took me 20 minutes to catch him I decided to take some time and work on this. 

I went out every day for three days straight with mints in hand and just sttod about 30 yards away. I didn't make eye contact just pretended to be playing with something in the grass. It wasn't long before my horse and the three other horses and 4 cows came wandering over.  Once my horse got within 5 yards I showed him a mint to draw him in( scotch mints seem popular).  As soon as he came up close enough I petted him gently and gave him a mint.  Now I know what you are thinking you shouldn't have to feed mints to have a horse do what you want, and I agree but I needed all the help I could get to help me reestablish the bond.

My horse really enjoyed it and I gave him another this time giving him lots of attention and rubbing along his neck. When he stood for it and clearly showed signs of liking it I stopped and walked away a few yards. 

As I had hoped he followed me at which time I scratched and gave him a mint.  After 10 minutes of this I turned and walked away, no riding no halter just left him wanting more.  I continued to do this for 3 days but this time without the mints just the rubbing and scratching.  It has been a month now and I no longer have problems catching my horse he just walks up looks for his rubbing and scratching and follows me in to the barn or I just jump on and ride him in. 

This problem of catching the horse was caused by me and my scrambling and anxiousness to get a ride in.  Horses have no time lines, if we just take our time and not rush horses you will be amazed how cooperative they can be.  I heard a saying I am not sure how it goes exactly but I think it was something like " the quickest way to get somewhere with a horse is often the long way".

Horselife Launches New Western Line of Bitless and Treeless Saddles and Bridles

The wait is finally over I have finally launched my new line of western style bitless bridles and treeless saddles.  It has been a year in the making and I am proud of the new products I have created.  For those of you who are not familiar with my brand of Bitless and Treeless tack here is a quick product overview:

Horselife Western Trail Boss Treeless Saddle Size 16 inch with Girth

The Western “Trail Boss” has been crafted to the highest quality, with you and your horses comfort and safety in mind.

Why ride Treeless?

There is no shortage of information about treeless saddles and the benefits and features they offer to horse and rider but I will try to summarize it up for you in one word “Comfort”. When I mean comfort I mean for both you and your horse.

Every horse’s back and every person’s body is different. It can be very hard to find a saddle that will fit your horse and your body type. Because these saddles do not have a tree (usually trees are made of wood fibreglass or steel) they are able to conform and bend to the shape of both the horse and rider. The more you use it the more it has that “Fits Like A Glove” feel. It is like having a custom made saddle for you and your horse. The benefits of this comfort can also been seen in the way you and your horse perform. The flexibility of a treeless saddle allows you and your horse to move more freely and not be inhibited by a stiff tree. You and your horse will move more naturally, free to find your seat easier then in a treed saddle.

Over time we all start to change shape, including our horses. Unlike a conventional treed saddle a HorseLife treeless will change with you both, this keeps you from having to add or take away pads so the saddle fits your horse.

With Treeless saddles sizing is not a big an issue, the flexibility of the saddle allows for many different size bottoms to fit in it, If you opt for a bigger size it just means you have a little more playing room then a smaller saddle.

The Trail Boss is designed for those interested in a multi purpose saddle suitable for the trail to barrel racing. The Trail Boss is crafted with the following specifications:

Beautiful hand tooled rich Brown leather.

Black suede seat for better traction

Lots of Concho and D rings .

Size 16” Western saddle sizing

Lofty fleece underlay

 Reinforced Leather /Nylon fenders for added strength and longevity.

 Weight about 20lbs

$500.00 available on ebay.com

HorseLife Western Bitless Bridle

What makes the Horselife brand different then other Bitless Bridles out there are the Rolled Leather Cheek pieces. The Rolled Leather Cheek pieces release and slide easily, helping to send a clear precise signal to your horse similar to the feel of a Pressure Rope Halter. The cheek pieces gently hug your horse while at the same time applying nose and poll pressure. You don’t have to worry about applying rein pressure and not have the cheek pieces release after you stop engaging the rein.

The noseband is padded for your horses utmost comfort. Some say the "Hugging" affect actually helps calm your horse.

I have experimented with many bits over the years on some very strong horses and I can say that the Horselife Bitless Bridle actually seemed to calm and even eliminate that annoying head action horses do to evade bits. Similar bridles retail for around $180.00 to over $200.00.

Do yourself and your horse a favour and try riding with a Horselife Bitless Bridle, your horse will thank you.

My cost $80.00 available on ebay.ca

Thanks for looking.

 I also have a free saddle trial offer and sell locally so if you are interested email me and we can set up a saddle trial

Thanks

Steve Wawryk

http://www.horselife.ca/

 email horselife@execulink.com

Cold Weather Winter Horse check list.

Winter has arrived early in some parts of Canada this year. A few weeks back Alberta was hit with a snow storm and have been experiencing cold weather the last little while.  In Ontario we have dodged tthe dreaded "S" word but like it or not it is coming.  Here are a few things I like to do with my horse so he is prepared going into the winter.

Give your horse a thorough look over.

Is he in good weight? You shouldn't be seeing any ribs but just barely feel them if you run your hand over the rib cage.  If your horse is a hard keeper try to fatten them up a bit going into the colder weather.

Is his coat coming in? By now your horse should be well on it's way to getting their woolies. If the coat doesn't look like it is coming in as good as it should be take steps to address this now.  A winter blanket or a nutritional problem may be the answer.

I ride my horse barefoot, I have for years but if you shoe your horse and don't plan on doing a lot of hard riding I suggest pulling the shoes and trimming the feet.  I believe a horse is better off barefoot in the winter.  I feel they have better traction and removing shoes allows the hoof to grow out and expand.

Give your horse a good grooming, it helps to release oils and promotes a healthy coat.  It also allows you to examine your horse closely. 

Everyones favorite job, clean the sheath.  Remember to use a very mild soap or a sheath cleaner.  I sell one called Equiderma, it works great and is very gentle.

Remember to stay UTD on vaccinations.

Most importantly start planning activites to do with your horse throughout the winter.

 I 'll talk a bit more about what to do around the barn to get ready for winter in my next post.

thanks

Steve Wawryk

Camping with Horses what do I need.

So you decided to go camping with your horses But not quite sure what you need.  When your camping space is usually limited so you can only bring  the essentials.  Here is a check list I like to go through before I take my horse camping.

Camping Horse Gear List

• saddle bridle and pad.

extra lead and halter( I am assuming you will have a lead and halter on your horse when you load him in the trailer)

• 2 water buckets, hoof pick, 2 brushes, fly spray wound ointment.

(If you have big bottles of fly spray and ointment buy some smaller containers for travelling, I like two buckets because they are handy to pack your grooming supplies in and they make lugging water back and forth a lot easier.)

• A good knife or toolzall( carry this on you at all times, you never know when you need it)
• Hay and/ or water if you are going to a place that won't provide these things.
• Baler twine (This can be used for tying water buckets up, making tie rings for the trailer, or something to hang wet saddle blankets off of.)
• Make sure all your tack is in good working order before you go, You don't want a gear malfunction out on the trail.
• If you are picketting hobbling or corraling your horses make sure it is packed and in good order.
• Pliers, hammer and a few horseshoe nails. ( you can always use a hammer and pliers when you are camping a will work in a pinch if you need to pull a shoe or tack one back on.

This is just a quick check list to make sure you will be able to safely camp with your horse.  I would love to hear from others on things they like to take so please reply with any other tips or items you like to take.
Steve Wawryk

Geocaching on horseback. Take the challenge.

While on vacation this summer I was introduced to Geocaching by my wife and kids.  I think the reason my wife got into it was two fold one she works in the field of GIS (Geographic Information Systems) and loves to try out the latest in GPS technology and two it was another way to keep the boys entertained. 

For those of you who haven't heard of geocaching is a high tech came of hide and seek. With the help of a GPS you search for caches that have been hidden throughout the world.  A cache is usually a small container with a little trinket inside.  When you find the cache you record your name and time of the find on a piece of paper inside of it.  You can take the trinkit but must replace it with something else.

It is very interesting to see all the different people before you who have found the cache.  I was surprised to hear that there are about one million caches around the world.  You can find and post cahes and the global position on a website http://www.geocaching.com/.

My challenge is for horse people who enjoy trail riding to take on the challenge and start geocaching along some of the more popular horse trails in your area.  I think it would help add a little excitement to your trail rides and may end up taking you to some pretty interesting places.
 Google (geocaching horseback) to find out more info.
Thanks
Steve Wawryk

Camping with Horses.

For years me and my friend have been talking about going camping with the horses.  Two weeks ago we finally got it together; we packed up the old truck camper and horses and headed to a place called Whinny Acres in Priceville Ontario.  Whinny Acres taylors to all sorts of equestrian campers.  They have bunk houses available for rent, tenting and hydro and water hookups for those with living quarters.  You can put your horse up in the barn or keep them close by your site with an outdoor stall.

We arrived around 7pm, just enough time to setup camp and get the horses settled before dark. The rest of the night was spent chatting with fellow campers and enjoying the roar of a warm fire and a few cold beers.

We awoke Saturday moring to find a pretty heavy frost on the ground and the horses comfortably munching on hay.  A big breakfast a cup of coffee and we were ready to hit the trail.

Whinny Acres offers a variety of rides from 2 hour rides on their beautiful vast wooded property up to an 8 hour self guided trip to Black Lake.  Being the adventureous type we opted to go out on our own and take on the 8 hour ride.  With map in hand we headed out looking forward to the day ahead.  It wasn't long before we encountered challeging log bridges and steep rocky inclines.  Our ride took us through old growth forests, hay fields and groomed paths.  In some spots of the forest the trail got so narrow I had to take my feet out of the stirrups and lift my knees way up to keep them from getting knocked off by the huge spruce trees we rode between.  Several times we got off and walked our horses to save their bare feet and stretch out our old knees.  We even had time for a quick lunch and a drink before we started heading back home.
 By the time we got back to the campsite we were all exhausted.  We put the horses up fired up the steaks and cracked the cooler for another enjoyable night chatting with some of the other campers.  Next morning we squeezed in a 2 hour ride and headed home.  All in all a great weekend.  If you ever wanted to camp with your horses I would recommend giving Whinny Acres a call nice facilites great trails and really nice people.

Happy Trails

Steve Wawryk

http://www.whinnyacres.com/

Picking the right boarding stable. Meeting your needs.

The other day I talked about finding the right boarding stable that will meet not only your horses needs but also cater to your wants.  I'd like to continue with that today.  I touched on the importance of price, location and ammenities today I want to talk about the staff and the services they provide.

It is very important that you trust the people responsible for looking after your horse, Are they knowledgeable about horses, do they have a good reputation in the horse community.  Ask around and see what others have to say about the stable.  Secondly is the staff accommodating or are they very rigid in the running of the business.  I can understand and respect the need for rules and business hours but  situations arise that may call for some flexibility.  Will they allow you to come in early to prep your horse for a show, can you buy a bale for that road trip you are planning , can I park my horse trailer for free, little things like that mean a lot. 

Liking the people that run and work at the stable is also important.  Do they make you feel welcomed when you show up or do they make you feel like an intruder.  Do they go out of their way to keep the barn lively and fun or is it the same thing day in and day out.  I have been to some places that  feel like you are walking into a church the atmosphere is so somber.  For me riding is about having fun.  Everytime I get on a horse no matter what the horse I want it to be fun.  The stable atmosphere is a big part of that equation so be sure you find a stable that has like minded people with similar interests.  Odds are you will make some new friends and find a riding buddy to tag along with.

Remember you are paying for a service and it is not unreasonable to expect what you are paying for. 
thanks
Steve Wawryk

Picking the right boarding stable, Does it meet my needs?.

Over the last couple of weeks I have been talking about what to look for in a boarding stable as it pertains to the horses safety.  Today I want to talk about what the facility has to offer you.  The first thing you need to do is prioritize what you want in a riding stable.  The second biggest factor is  cost, thirdly is distance and accessability.
If you are into trail riding then a indoor arena isn't necessary, but if you are into schooling and jumping throughout the year they are a must particularly in colder climates when it gets dark very early.
If you want a few lessons see if they are offered or open to having you bring in a coach.  Check to see if you will be competing for arena time with a riding school.
Work out a budget.  As you all know there are always extra costs to having horses other then board.  Be realistic about how much you can afford and does the cost warrant spending that kind of money on a facility you are only getting out to once a week.  Be sure to factor in the cost of gas when working out your boarding budget.  Remember your horse is not impressed with fancy stalls or heated lounges, if you can live without them so can your horse.

Distance is a big factor in selecting a barn.  We all lead busy lives these days so time is of the essence.  Ask yourself do I really want to be driving 40 minutes each way to the barn and try to get in 3-4 rides a week?  Also consider the cost of gas and wear and tear on your vehicle to drive that distance.  The distance is very important but so is the direction.  Will you be dealing with rush hour traffic or dangerous road conditions come winter.  Figure out when you are going to ride, is it an easy commute from the office or home at the time you plan on riding?  I found the best way to make time for riding is scheduling it into your day timer.  Talk it over with your family and come up with a schedule that works best for everyone.  Riding time and a happy family life is a delicate balance you'd  hate to have a horse to ride and knowone to share the joy you derive from it with.

Tomorrow I will talk a little more about stables and your needs.
Thanks
Steve Wawryk

Picking the right boarding stable. Feeding and Care for Pasture board

The last few posts I have talked about what to look when accessing the facility today I want to touch upon the care that will be provided. 
It is pretty simple, you can be boarding at the nicest well cared for boarding facility but if the staff doesn't take proper care of your horse it's all for not. 
So you finally found a place that looks good; safe pastures good barn and a  nice arena, now it is time to talk to the staff and see what care thay will provide for your pasture boarded horse.
The first thing would be to ask how many horses will be on the pasture, You don't want more then the pasture can handle and overcrowding may cause fighting.  A safe number is no more then 1/acre here in Southern Ontario. 
Another consideration is the horses they will be turned out with.  Is your horse low man on the totem poll or herd boss?  Will geldings and mares be mixed and what ages are the horses.  If you have a very old horse consider his safety when turned out with much younger feisty horses. 
Ask if the pasture and run in shelter is picked of manure on a regular basis, proper cleaning keeps insect infestation and worms down.
Ask about a herd health vaccination program, horses sharing the same pasture should be wormed on the same program.
Another consideration is water, Do they have access to clean water, are troughs automated and heated or are they filled daily. How often are they cleaned?
Another consideration is feeding when pasture is gone.  Ideally they will have access to hay constantly, if not  are bales thrown out to them and how is it distributed.  You would hate for your horse to not get his share because another horse won't let him near the pile.  Horses need to eat throughout the day particularly in the winter as the  processing of their food provides them with body heat.
Ask to see how often the herd is checked on. I new someone who's horse was severely injured they were not informed for days because the person managing the stable couldn't bother to take a look out in the pasture. This is very important because we all like to take holidays and we can't get out to ride every day so we want to know and trust that the people we are paying to look after our horses are doing just that. 
Next I'll talk about the things to ask about boarding your horse in a barn.

Picking the right boarding stable, barn and riding arena

The last couple of posts I have been talking about what to look for in selecting a boarding stable. Today I'll talk a little more about the barn then get into things to look for when considering the indoor riding arena.

If the stalls in the barn have windows in them make sure that they are guarded with metal bars, this will keep your horse from putting a hoof or his nose through the glass. I saw a horse who did just that and it was not pretty. Play attention to the lighting, not only should provide good lighting throughout the barn but they to should be protected from being struck by a horse or something else. I have first hand experience with a light breaking over top a horse and I can tell you it is not fun picking broken glass out of a horses rump.

If you are looking at a facility with an indoor riding arena there are several main things you should look at. Once again you and your horses safety are the first concern.

Is the riding arena clear of equipment, or do you have to navigate around tractors being stored or jumps and standards left lying all over the place.

Are the kick boards of adequate height (4ft min) and do they slope away from the wall. By having them slope away this will prevent you from being rubbed or banged against the wall when you go cantering by.

Look at the lighting does it provide enough light or is it dark and cast shadows everywhere?

Pay close attention to the footing, is it soft, safe and provide good traction or is it made up with whatever was convenient? A big concern is dust; a dusty arena is not only dirty to ride in but also dangerous to you and your horses eyes and respiratory system. Make sure to ask how often it is oiled or else you could be in the middle of a dust storm within 15minutes of your ride. Look at the size of the arena is it going to meet the needs of the activities you want to pursue.

Some other little extra perks to consider are viewing galleries and warmth of the arena. I don't believe you need to heat the riding area but a heated viewing gallery with a washroom and a place to sit is nice to have. A fridge to keep a lunch and a cold drink is all the better.

I have ridden in all sorts of arenas from swanky polo arenas with leather clad lounges to steel glad equipment shed. Most recently I had the opportunity to play indoor polo in a Coverall poly building and I must say I loved it. The lighting was great, it was warm and the clear span trusses provided plenty of room. I strongly recommend them.

Hope this helps with making your decision in selecting a boarding stable

Steve Wawryk

www.horselife.ca

Picking the right boarding stable,Barn Safety

Last week I touched upon the hazards to look for in the pasture your horse will be kept in. Today I want to look at some things to look for when selecting a safe barn to keep your horse in.

I don't believe horses are fussy weather a stall or barn is well painted or has fancy brass hooks and handles. If that's what floats your boat go for it it but don't make decor the number one priority in selecting a barn. Once again put the horses safety and well being first.

Look for a well ventilated barn, you can tell by just sniffing, if it reeks of urine it probably isn't that well ventilated,Make sure the stalls are strong, safe and free of protruding objects your horse can get caught up on. Look particularly close at the partitions between stalls and around the stall handles. The stall should also be big enough to comfortably allow your horse to get up and lie down, for an average size horse a 10x10 is good.

Check to see that the isle is wide enough to bring your horse in and out of the stall and turn around . I like a minimum of 8 feet.

Are the cross ties secured properly or are they put together with baler twine and cheep snaps?

what is the flooring like is it slippery concrete or textured. This is a real concern in wet winter climates.

What is the lighting like, can you see as well at night as during the day.

Is the area for tack in an organized,dry, clean enviorment away from bedding and other things that can get in your way or wreck your expensive tack.

These are just a few things to think about. Tomorrow I will continue with barn safety and talk about indoor riding arenas.

thanks

Steve Wawryk

http://www.horselife.ca/

Picking the right boarding stable. Pasture safety.

Yesterday I spoke about the importance of a facilities fencing as it relates to the horses safety. I'd like to continue on the subject of horse safety and talk about the pasture and paddock area.
Any of you who already own a horse know how quickly a horse can find trouble. They just can't help it because of their curious nature. Eliminating the risks is key to keeping your horse from suffering a serious injury or even death. Over the years I have seen some real messes, I was even once at a training facilities where old tractors and dirt bikes had been left out in the same pasture as the horses brought in for training. I left the place thinking what kind of effort is this trainer going to put into training horses when they can't even haul a rusty old tractor out of the paddock. This sort of situation is just asking for a horse to cut themselves. A pasture should be free of old equipment, junk pile, baler twine or any other items a horse could get themselves caught up in. Make sure water troughs and feeders are well maintained and free of sharp edges. The out building should be in good repair and free from protruding nails. If sheet metal is used on the run ins the edges should be capped.

It would be nice if the paddock was free of burrs but in some places this is almost impossible. . This just means a little more grooming time. I suggest you stay on top of the burr situation though because a mated tail and forelock can be a real annoyance to your horse.

If the horses are brought in and out for feeding or stalled at night ask that the halter be removed. Too many horses have hung themselves out in a paddock or even in a stall because their halter got caught on something. If they need to wear a halter make sure it is a break away halter.

Ideally the paddock or pasture will have plenty of natural shelter, shade and running water. Uneven terrain and some rocky out crops. These natural settings help keep a horse from getting bored protected from wet and cold and can also be beneficial to maintaining barefoot horses. A muddy area is also ideal to help give added moisture to dry hooves in the summer or in warm climates. This usually occurs near the watering area.

Make sure the pasture isn't overcrowded. In my neck of the woods where pastures get plenty of rain and sun in the summer we can put about 7 to 8 horses on a 10 acre plot from may to October before any hay needs to be fed. Overcrowding can also lead to insect infestation from manure build up. Ask the barn manager if the paddocks are picked clean of manure.

I hope this gives you some idea of what to look for in a facility particularly if you want pasture board. Next post I we will discuss what to look for in the barn area.

Thanks

Steve Wawryk

www.horselife.ca

Picking the right horse boarding stable.

It has been a while since my last post with summer vacations ending kids going back to school and giving lessons and have been a little lax in my postings. Today I want to talk about picking the right horse boarding stable. I have been boarding horses for almost 20 years now and have probably been at 10 different stables some great others not so good. Over the next couple of days I will talk about things to look for when picking a stable.

The well being and safety of your horse is of the utmost importance. This sounds pretty basic but really it is the most important aspects of boarding and probably the broadest to cover. One of the most important aspects is fencing. There is all sorts of fencing out there today from monofilaments to tapes and steel pipe each have their pluses and minuses. At the end of the day the fence must contain your horse safely.

If you are located on a busy highway you will want very strong sturdy fencing to contain your horse, electric wire temporary tape or a strand or two of braided rope may not do. You will want a stout fence that your horse would not consider trying. Look for 5ft high and 4 strand or boards wide.

If you have a horse that may try a fence a line of electric wire may help.

Also consider the size of the pasture or paddock. If your horse if on 3000 acres you could get away with a strand or two because they are not going to try going through the fence with that much room. If they are in a small paddock I suggest a stronger fence with 4 strands. Ideally something that will not harm the horse if they get caught up in it.

Make sure the posts are well set not broken or leaning over. I have seen a horse hit a old wood post with his face, the results were not good.

I find that fencing is a good reflection of how a stable manages the other aspects of their business. If the fencing looks haphazard and thrown together chances are so are other parts of the stable.

check back tomorrow for more tips on selecting a boarding stable

thanks

Steve Wawryk

http://www.horselife.ca/

Horselife Treeless Saddles;comfort for you and your horse.

Why ride Treeless?
There is no shortage of information about treeless saddles and the benefits and features they offer to horse and rider but I will try to summarize it up for you in one word, “Comfort”. When I mean comfort, I mean for both you and your horse.
Every horse’s back and every person’s body is different. It can be very hard to find a saddle that will fit your horse and your body type. Because treeless saddles do not have a tree (usually trees are made of wood, fibreglass or steel) they are able to conform and bend to the shape of both the horse and rider. The more you use a treeless saddle, the more it has that “fits like a glove” feel. It is like having a custom made saddle for you and your horse.
The benefits of this comfort fit can be seen in the way you and your horse perform. The flexibility of a treeless saddle allows you and your horse to move more freely and not be inhibited by a stiff tree. You and your horse will move more naturally - free to find your seat more easily then in a treed saddle.
Over time we all start to change shape, including our horses. Unlike a conventional treed saddle a HorseLife treeless will change with you both. Saving you from having to add or take away pads to fit your ever changing horse.
With Treeless saddles sizing is not a big an issue, the flexibility of the saddle allows for many different shapes to fit in it.
Do you and your horse a favour and start enjoying the comfort and flexibility of a HorseLife Treeless saddle.

Wild Horse Redemption, Watch it!

I was giving a riding lesson the other day and I heard a couple of the boarders talking about a movie called Wild Horse Redemption. Being the horse nut I am I'm always looking to watch a good flick involving horses. Actually my wife jokes that the only way she can get me to go out to a movie is if it has a horse in it. Luckily for me they had the movie with them and were good enough to lend it to me. Turns out the movie is about the rehabilitation of prisoners through the breaking and training of wild BLM mustangs.
The documentary takes you through the journey of 5 prisoners and their assigned wild mustangs. Without giving too much away I'll tell you a bit. Through natural horsemanship training methods the mustangs are transformed from wild dangerous animals into gentle trusting saddle horses. The transformation of the prisoners is just as spectacular. It is informative and really nice to see how both horse and rider learn from each other and go on to become valued members of society.
Check the links below for more info on the movie and the BLM mustang adoption program
http://www.horselife.ca/
www.pointgreypictures.com/wildhorse/wildhorse.htm
www.wildhorseandburro.blm.gov/
www.mustangs4us.com/prisonhorses.htm

Burrs in your horses Tail? Get them out easliy

There is one thing that I am not crazy about when it comes to horseback riding; it 's grooming. What makes this necessary task even more arduous are those annoying burrs. In southern Ontario burrs are in full force. These days I am always wondering what sort of state I am going to find my horses mane and tail in.
Here's a little tip for those of you who are faced with the daunting task of removing big clumps of burrs from your horses matted manes and tails. Baby Oil! Spray or work in some baby oil directly into the area and let it sit for a minute or two. Don't use a comb or brush right away, begin by separating the burrs from the clump with your fingers. Add more baby oil as you go along. Once you have the hair separated from the clump simple pull the burr out. If you have to pull it down along the hair to remove it do that. This will keep the mane and tail from getting fuzzy looking. When you removed the larger pieces use a wide tooth comb then a brush to remove the smaller pieces.
This tip can save you a lot of time and leaves your horse smelling nice.
One last tip wear gloves .

When to use a Back Cinch

This is for all who ride in a western saddle. The majority of the trail rides I go on are made up mostly of people in western saddles. Every one of those riders have a different looking rig, but the biggest variation amongst the riders comes in regards to a back cinch.
Some saddles have D rings for back cinches others don't. Some have D rings but no billets , others have the billets but no back cinch. If they do have a back cinch some have it loose others have it tight, some with keeper and some without.
So who needs a back cinch and how should it be worn. I believe the only time you need a back cinch is when roping, barrel racing or cutting. The back cinch is essential in roping because it keeps the saddle from catapulting you out of the saddle when you tie on to a steer and prevents the saddle bars from pushing into the horses shoulder after you have dallied. Basically the back cinch comes up and hits the horse in the under belly limiting how far the saddle can move from the force of the steer.
When barrel racing and cutting the horse changes direction very quickly a back cinch can prevent the rider from being knocked in the butt by the saddle if they are left behind the motion of the quick turning horse.
If you do use a back cinch always use a keeper. This is a strap that attaches the front of the back cinch the the back of the girth. This strap keeps the back cinch from sliding back towards the flanks and acting as a bucking strap.
A back cinch should be snug but not tight like a girth, it is there to keep the saddle from slipping so it has to fit snug enough to do just that. A word of caution to those who ride the trails and bush with a loose cinch; I have seen on more than one occasion where some branches have been caught up in a loose hanging cinch, needless to say a rodeo ensued.
thanks
Steve Wawryk
Horselife

Wind Rider Equestrian Challenge! Check it out.

If you are anything like me and are interested in developing a well rounded versatile horse regardless of your discipline you will want to check this out. The Wind Rider Equestrian Challenge gives competitors from any discipline or breed type the chance to showcase the versatility and willingness of their horse to tackle a variety of challenges and obstacles within a given time frame. The last part of the competition involves the finalists who complete an all-new set of obstacles and also perform a musical freestyle presentation of their own making that highlights their horses’ unique talents. A panel of judges will be scoring horse and rider on the:
Wow factor: How daring was the routine?
Teamwork: Did the horse/rider team help or hinder each other?
Horsemanship: Did the riders work with or against their trusty steeds?
Equitation: How good was the riding?
Attitude of the horses: Were the horses willing, even if they were afraid?
A series of these competitions will be taking place throughout Ontario over the coming months and the winner of each division will have a chance to compete in the Finals at Can Am Horse show in Mar 2010. The competitors will be competing for money and great prizes which include 2 of my very own HorseLife treeless saddles.

The first contest will be held in Clinton Ontario on August 22-23. I will be one of the guest judges at the contest and will also be hosting a clinic on treeless saddles. So come on out and check out this exciting new Horse sport sweeping across North America
For more info check out these sites
www.horselife.ca
www.canamequine.ca
www.twoasonehorsemanship.com
Hope to see you there.

English or Western? Not your only choice.

It is usually the first question out of someones mouth after they find out you ride. "Do you ride English or Western"? It is the majority that think you have to be one or the other but that simply is not true. You are only limited by your willingness to try new disciplines. Over the next couple of weeks I hope to talk about the variety of riding styles and disciplines available to use. I hope to talk about everything from Buckaroo and Florida Cracker horseman to the riding styles of the Charros and Gauchos of the pampas.
I personally find learning about different horseman from all reaches of the world very interesting and always seem to find some useful tidbit of info to help me improve my horsemanship. People often say my horse goes English but not Western. For the majority of us horse owners we don't have the option of having an English horse or a Western horse. In my case my horse had to learn to fox hunt, team rope, trail ride, play polo and do skijoring. He had to learn this because I wanted to try all these things but only had the one horse. Some people might say well my horse isn't suited for that and there is some merit to it. Not every horse has the mental or physical capability to be a three day eventer then turn around and rope a steer but I have never met a horse that could not figure out neck reining and direct reining or pop over a little jump or do a rollback. If you find a riding discipline you think looks interesting read up on it and give it a try, I am sure if you give our horse the chance they will put in an honest effort and appreciate the change of scenery.
Thanks
Steve

The Tie Down, Does my horse need it?

I often see people out for a pleasant trail ride and the have the horses head cranked down with a tie down. For those of you who are not familiar with a tie down ( standing Martingale for the English set) it is a strap which is attached to a noseband of either leather or stiff rope and connected to the girth on the other end. The purpose of this equipment is to keep the horses head down. I understand why they have it on; to keep the horses head from coming up too high and hitting them in the face or to keep them from evading the bit. All the tie down is doing in cases like this is masking a step in the horses training. It is a short cut and a way to handle a horse that hasn't learned to give to the bit. I would like to see more people work on teaching a horse to give to the bit then have to rely on the tie down to force the horses head down.
Riding with a Tie Down can also become a safety issue. Let's say you have to cross deep water and your tie down is left on your horse,there is a good chance you horse won't be able to lift his head above water.
There are times when a tie down is necessary, for instance in polo and standing Martingale prevents a horse from coming up with it's head and whacking your opponents horse or it's rider. I can also see in rodeo roping events. Horses often balance and brace against the tie down to help take the shock of stopping a calf or steer.
There is no substitute for teaching a horse to give but if you do need to have an aid out on the trail try a running martingale, it is safer and more effective in teaching your horse to get his head down where it should be.
Happy trails
Steve
www.horselife.ca

Bitless Riding, is it right for you and your horse?

If you are anything like me you are always looking for the perfect tool that will bring you and your horse closer in working harmony. Over the years I have tried all sorts of bits, saddle and to be frank some real gimmicks. About 5 years back I gave a bitless bridle a try and had some real success with it.
I enjoyed riding bitless so much that when I created the Horselife brand of tack I developed several styles of bitless bridles along with some treeless saddles, rope halters and leads. If you are not familiar with the premise of bitless riding it is basically riding your horse without a bit in it's mouth.
This is not a new concept horses were ridden without bits for a 1000 years before a bit was ever put in their mouth. There are several pieces of tack that qualify as a bitless bridle, some of the more common ones are bosals, hackamores, side pull, indian bosal and the cross over design bridle. The mechanics of these bridles basically work off the same principle, that is nose pressure, poll pressure and in the case of the Indian bosal curb pressure aswell. The cross over design works on nose , poll and some cheek pressure. The cheek pressure comes from the cheek straps being crossed underneath the horses jaw, when the right rein is pulled the left cheek strap is pulled and pushes against the horses left jaw teaching it to move away from pressure similar to a neck rein.
The benefit I have found from riding some horses bitless is a more relaxed horse, if a horse is comfortable they ride better and in some cases it has eliminated annoying tricks horses do like head tossing and lugging in order to avoid the bit. I also like the idea of having to rely on less gear to ride a horse. If you want to see the epitome of this go to you tube and search Stacey Westfall performing a reining pattern without any bridle or saddle.
Some bitless bridle manufacturers are making claims that all horses perform better in a bitless bridle. Even though I manufacture bitless bridles and often ride bitless I do not agree with such claims. Every horse is different and not all horses react the same to nose and poll pressure, some like it some don't. I have also found in speed events where other animals are involved like polo and team roping the bitless doesn't always give you the precision needed to quickly and safely cue the horse. For 95% of the riders who will try bitless this is not an issue. The majority of bitless riders are avid trail riders, beginners learning to ride on a good school horse or involved in arena work.
There is no substitute for good riding skills and good hands a bitless bridle in the hands of someone who is really pulling and yanking on a horse is going to cause more pain then someone who is quit with a bit, If you are heavy handed or have a horse that tries to evade the bit, tosses its head or a good all round quit horse bitless may be the answer.
You can check out my website for more info on Bitless and treeless riding
www.horselife.ca
thanks
Steve

How do I slow down my Horse

I have a lot of my students ask me how to slow their horse down in all gaits. Some horses are just more energetic then others, they move out more willingly and simply have a quicker gait. That doesn't mean that they cannot learn to wait for your command and slow down regardless if it's a walk, trot or canter. The method I use is the same for all gaits; Tight Circles. By using tight circles you are not only teaching your horse to slow down but you are also getting them more supple and staying out of their mouths by not asking for a stop.
Here's how I do it:
working in straight line ask your horse for a trot when they are moving at the pace you are happy with just stay out of their way but the very second they speed up without your asking direct rein them around into a tight circle, (be sure not to yank or jerk them around we don't want this to hurt or frighten them). Circle tight enough that your horse has to come down to a walk but doesn't stop. Once you completed your circle ask again for the trot again in the same direction. If you are riding in an arena or somewhere where their is a fence circle your horse towards the fence or wall , this will keep them from walking out big circles and forces them to turn tighter. Once they are going nicely at the trot you can ask at the canter. Use caution at the canter bring them down to a walk or trot so you don't turn your horse too quickly and throw them off balance or bang him into the wall.
When teaching your horse to slow down you have to be consistent, clear and work in both directions, this is often the hardest part because it can be tedious and boring but stay at it and in no time you will feel your horse waiting for you.
I am happy to answer any questions you may have.
Steve

Azteca Horse of the Charro

The Azteca is a new breed created by the Mexican Charro. The goal was to develop an all round riding horse for working cattle. It was developed by combining,Lusitano, Andalusian Quarter Horse and the Criollo.
The Azteca is a combination of both breeds, being not too tall and lean, nor too short and stocky.They range between 14.3 and 16h.h when fully mature.
The head has a straight or convex profile, small pricked ears, and bright expressive eyes. The neck is very muscular and arched. The Azteca has a good wither a straight, a fairly short back broad round croup with a low tail set and a deep girth. The cannon bones are well-muscled with good joints; however, the cannons are long and thin. The bone density should favor the Spanish ancestry rather than the Quarter Horse.
The horses have a naturally collected movement with medium high action and excellent tracking. They are spirited and proud.
Aztecas are brave horses that are easily trained and eager to work, making them ideal candidates for working cattle and bull fighting . The horses are very good at all sports which require agility, power, spirit, strength, and speed. They are used for everything from ranch work and polo to dressage.

The International Azteca Horse Association was formed in 1992 to oversee the breed. Affiliated associations in the United States and Canada soon followed. Currently, 1000 Azteca are registered with the IAzHA.

info provided by wikipedia

Horselife Daily Dish on all Things Related to Horses

After a lot of coaxing and help from my wife I am ready to embark on some serious blogging on all sorts of horse related topics. My life long interest in horses has led me in all different equine directions and interests. It is my plan to share these tidbits of info with fellow horse crazed enthusiasts on a daily basis. Every day of the week I will have a different topic.
Monday: Riding tips and Horse Problem Solving
Tuesday: Book and product reviews
Wednesday: Tack and it's function
Thursday Riding Styles and Disciplines
Friday: Breed Reviews
Sat/Sun I will be out riding.
Once I get the hang of it I will be posting video blogs from a variety of locations.
I am really looking forward to sharing my passion for all things horses and look forward to hearing your comments and questions.
thanks
www.horselife.ca

Tack Sale Aug 2 2009 Grandriver Raceway

I will have a booth set up at the Standardbred showcasw show at the Grandriver Raceway in Elora Ontario on Aug 2, 2009.

Come on out and see what a multi purpose horse the standardbred is. Stop by my booth and check out some interesting and unique tack products I have for sale.

Steve

www.horselife.ca