Some of my best ideas come while riding,RALOS Safety Floors is born.

The other day me and my riding buddy where out for a ride and started talking about our week and what we were up to. He mentioned that an older neighbour of his had a bad fall and seriously hurt herself. We started talking some more about the aging population and the risks of falling. Well one thing lead to another and we decided to look into it a little more and discovered a business opportunity right in front of our noses.

Hence RALOS Safety Floors was born.

RALOS Safety Floors is dedicated to reducing the occurrence of slip and fall accidents that often cause serious bodily injury. We assist a wide variety of organizations; Commercial, Industrial, Health Care and Residential facilities to comply with national safety standards and safety legislation.



With an innovative floor treatment backed by a comprehensive floor safety program we provide our customer a long lasting and affordable alternative in Slip & Fall prevention.

Our Safe Floor Treatment will improve your floors traction performance without changing the appearance or the maintenance schedule of the floors. The results are beautiful floors that comply with current safety legislation and standards.

I'm hoping that this venture will become as rewarding and interesting as Horslife has been for me.

I hope that this new business idea of mine goes to show you that if you just relax and not worry so much about your riding seat and how your horse is responding good things can come about. For me a big part of riding is relaxing and letting my mind wander, I suggest you try the same sometime. I promise you will feel more relaxed at the end of the ride and so will your horse.

Here's the shameless plug:

If you are concerned about slip and falls caused by slippery floor tiles check out the website email me or give me a call.

Enough business now let's get out for a ride

www.ralossafetyfloors.com

sales@ralossafetyfloors.com

226-444-4602

I Hope you're Riding? Now is the time to leg up your horse.

I must admit when the weather is nice the last thing I want to do is be in front of a computer writing a blog, hence the reason I haven't had a post in over 2 weeks.  The weather in Southern Ontario has been superb for riding so that's what I have been doing.
I am taking full advantage of the dry warm weather  to bring some horses back into shape.  I often get asked what I do to leg up a horse after a winter of relative little activity.  It is pretty simple and similar to the way people start getting back in shape after a winter off.  Start small and build. 
Here is what I would do to bring a trail horse back into condition.

Week 1
Monday walk 20 min trot 5 min walk 15 min
Tuesday walk 20 min trot 5 min walk 15 min

Wednesday walk 20 min trot 5 min walk 15 min

Thursday walk 20 min trot 5 min walk 15 min

Friday walk 20 min trot 5 min walk 15 min

Saturday walk 20 min trot 5 min walk 15 min

Sunday rest
Week 2
Monday walk 20 min trot 5 min walk 15 min
Tuesday walk 20 min trot 5 min walk 15 min
Wednesday walk 15 min trot 10 min walk 15 min
Thursday walk 15 min trot 10 min walk 15 min
Friday walk 15 min trot 10 min walk 15 min
Saturday walk 15 min trot 10 min walk 15 min
Sunday rest

Week 3
Monday walk 10 min trot 15 min canter 5 min walk 15 min
Tuesday walkwalk 10 min trot 15 min canter 5 min walk 15 min
Wednesday walk 10 min trot 15 min canter 5 min walk 15 min
Thursday walk 10 min trot 15 min canter 5min walk 15 min
Friday walk 10 min trot 15 min canter 5 min walk 15 min
Saturday walk 10 min trot 15 min canter 5 min walk 15 min
Sunday go for a long walk to stretch out from the week
Week 4

Monday walk 10 min trot 20 min canter 5 walk 15 min
Tuesday walkwalk 10 min trot 20 min walk 15 min
Wednesday walk 10 min trot 20 min walk 15 min
Thursday walk 10 min trot 20 min canter 5min walk 15 min
Friday walk 10 min trot 20 min canter 5 min walk 15 min
Saturday walk 10 min trot 20 min canter 5 min walk 15 min
Sunday go for a long walk with a little canter and some trotting thrown in. ( no more then 5 minutes of trotting and cantering)
This is a rough guide; play it by ear and see how your horse is doing.  I don't think there is anything wrong with a sweaty horse but be sure to cool him out properly and rest him if you think he needs it. 
Try to stick to good footing and use your good horse sense.
Good luck
Steve Wawryk

Spring check list for horse and rider

    Finally, spring is here in Southern Ontario and we can start to ramp up our outdoor riding activities. After a long winter and not much riding you are eager to get out there and hit the trail but before you do there are a few things you need to check.

   The first thing is make sure your horse is in good health. Look for cuts, scraps, runny noses, leaky eyes and all vaccinations are up to date (UTD). You don't want to put a sick or unhealthy horse back to work if he isn't up for it. Remember start back slow, stretching, flexing, lots of walking and asking for a response: stop, back up, move of the leg, collect, etc.

  Second make sure you are in shape, hopefully you have been doing your stretches and exercises throughout the winter, if you haven't stretch before you get in the saddle and start back slow. Nothing can take the fun out of riding then waking up with sore stiff muscles from the ride the day before.

   Make sure all your tack is in good working order, I suggest taking care of repairs in the winter but give it another once over to make sure nothing is going to break or rub the wrong way.

   If you have a trailer you should have it given the once over, have bearings repacked, check the brakes, the floor and lights. There is nothing worse then having a tripped all planned and the trailer isn't in operating order when you need it.

   Plan your events now and write them in a calendar. It will be summer before you know it and campgrounds and shows will fill up quickly, decide which events you want to do and book it. I find if I wait I either miss out on the space, get too busy with other things or you just plain forget.

   Set a goal for you and your horse, maybe it is to teach him to load himself in a trailer, perfect the flying lead change or get him to ride out on his own. If you have something to work for it keeps things fresh and interesting for you and your horse and motivates you to get out and ride.

Hope to see you out on the trail.

Steve Wawryk

Can Am All Breed Show A Great Success

I would like to thank everyone that stopped by the HorseLife booth this past weekend at the Can Am All Breed show in London Ontario.  It was great seeing a bunch of familiar faces and meeting a lot of new ones.  I would like to give a special thanks to all those who purchased some products and took in one of my seminars; without your support I could not be doing what I love and would be back at a "Real Job"; thanks.

A special congratulations to all the Wind Rider Challenge competitors, in particular to Camilla Willings who took the championship with her beautiful freestyle performance on her Paso Fino Stallion; (some great riding Camilla)

I should also mention the Winner of the Leather Bitless Bridle draw was Skye Pomainville of Timmins Ontario.

I look forward to meeting with many of you again at horse events throughout the season.

Thanks

Steve

Can Am all Breed show March 19-21 Western Fairgrounds London Ontario

This isn't so much a blog today but a shameless plug.  I will be lecturing at the Can Am All Breed Show in London Ontario at the Western fairgrounds Agriplex Mar 19-21, 2010.  I will be speaking about the benefits and features of bitless and treeless riding.  So if you are interested in hearing some no nonsense, concise, unbiased, facts about this riding style; take in one of my lectures or auditorium seminars were I will be saddling and bridling a horse in a treeless saddle and bitless bridle.
Be sure to drop by the HorseLife booth G5 and enter your name in a draw for some great prizes or take advantage of some show specials on a variety of great products  (Free Candy Too!). 
The schedule of lecture times seems to be changing by the minute so check out the http://www.canamequine.ca/  schedule for times and room numbers closer to the show.  Be sure to take in a Windrider Challenge were riders compete in a multifaceted discipline competition for great prizes. First place is an Orthoflex saddle second and third prize is a horselife treeless saddle.

OWNER, CREATOR of HORSELIFE

STEVE WAWRYK

Steve Wawryk's lifelong love and passion for horses is what led him to pursue a career in the horse industry and helped him in creating his multifaceted company Horselife.

Drawing on his 16 years of interest and participation in a wide variety of equestrian disciplines, Steve has created a brand of tack, most notably his Horselife bitless bridles and treeless saddles. He offers clinics and seminars to small groups interested in learning more about bitless and treeless riding. Steve can answer all your questions and provide hands on instruction to help you get started riding in this exciting discipline. The Horselife "free saddle trial" program is a great way to insure that treeless riding is right for both you and your horse.

When Steve is not busy running his tack business he is writing his daily blog on all things related to horses. Want to improve your riding? Steve offers horse training and private riding lessons to people interested in learning a no nonsense safe approach to "real life riding". In a very short time Steve can have you and your horse working in harmony. In his spare time, Steve enjoys camping or traveling with his wife and two sons. On any given weekend Steve can be found playing polo, roping cattle, fox hunting or participating in some other horseback pursuit. If you ever thought about trying bitless or treeless riding be sure to take in Steve's seminar, you won't want to miss it. For more information, visit http://www.horselife.ca/
Thanks hope to see you there.
Steve

A little trick for calming an excited horse.

We have all been there, you are out at the barn ready to load your horse on the trailer or go for a ride and your horse is wired for sound. They could be fired up for any sort of reason but all you know is your horse is prancing, head held high, jumpy and showing the whites of his eyes. It is obvious your horse is nervous or scared so how do you calm him down so you can handle him in a safe calm manner. I have a trick I use to help settle a nervous horse. I am not sure where I picked this trick up; it may have been from another horseman, an article I read or the internet. I don't really know the science or magic behind this technique, (I think it works on pressure points and endorphin release) but I do know it has worked for me.

Let me explain; the first thing I do is keep calm, it is impossible to settle an animal when you are stressed so I take a couple of deep breathes and relax. When I feel the tension leave I talk to my horse in a calm cool manner in a soothing soft voice.

Once I can approach the horse I start by scratching and petting around the withers. Hopefully the horse will stand still and lower his head enough so I can rub him between the eyes. Once I have rubbed and petted on his head him I apply a little pressure to the indentations above the horse’s eyes. I use my pinkie and my thumb (like the hang loose symbol) and apply light steady pressure to this area.

At first your horse may not know what to expect and start to move around and try to raise his head, stay with it. In a very short time the horses head will begin to drop and his eye lids will grow very heavy. After 30 seconds to a minute of this the horse will become very calm and relaxed, some become so relaxed that they try to lie down and almost fall asleep. I believe this is a good practice to get into before every ride, particularly for those of you who are mounting a nervous high strung horse. What I like about this trick is it performs three purposes, one it can help settle the horse and two it forces you to calm yourself down before mounting and three helps to build the bond between you and your horse. Keep this up for a few weeks and in no time your horse will learn to look forward to it. I can hear the sceptics already and I know it sounds crazy and a little flakey but it works for me.

Part-Boarding Part 2: Taking the Plunge

So you’ve finally decided to elevate your riding from a weekly lesson to part-boarding a horse. This is a big step so you want to make sure you know exactly what you want and what to look for before taking the plunge.

Here are a few things to look for and avoid before getting into a part-boarding agreement.

Find an appropriate level of mount. Make sure the horse you are going to board is well suited to your skill level. I think it is okay to challenge yourself at this point by riding a little more horse then what you have been riding in lessons but be honest with yourself and the person whose horse you will be riding. If you are not an expert rider don’t claim to be. Have the owner ride the horse first then you ride it, this is a good way to see if the horse is what the owner claims it to be and it allows you and the owner the chance to see if everyone is well suited and happy with the match up.

Make sure the horse is sound for riding, there is nothing more frustrating then paying for a horse that is too sore to ride or is only sound for “light riding” when what you want is a horse that can giddy up. A vet check will do this or have a knowledgeable friend help you out.

Try to find a location that will allow you to do the riding you want to do. If you are interested in trail riding then look for an appropriate barn that has easy access to trails. There is no sense part boarding at a hunter jumper barn when you want to work on trails. Be sure to check that the barn hours and accessibility to arenas, sand rings and round pens are going to work with your schedule. You don’t want to part- board at a facility if you plan on riding at night and the barn closes at 8PM or you have a lot of lessons to work around.

Make sure the barn is located close enough that you can get out and ride as often as has been arranged. Be realistic are you willing to travel an hour each way to ride three days a week?

So you think you have found the appropriate horse and location now it is time to talk finances and expectations with the owner. Negotiating terms with owner is often the toughest part for some people. In my business dealings I always want both parties walking out of the agreement happy with what they got. You don’t want to feel you have been taken advantage of and you don’t want the owner to feel like you are trying to short change them. This is particularly true for a part boarding agreement, ticking off the owner is a sure fire way of ending the arrangement.

The things you will need to discuss are the available dates; can you take the horse off the property or to shows? Talk about access to tack and having friends coming out to watch. Have a clear understanding what will happen if the horse becomes lame, usually the owner takes care of vet bills. I would caution anyone who is asked to cover vet bills, medications or supplements you never know where these expenses could lead. I strongly suggest liability insurance for the part –boarder, you want to be covered if the horse you are riding accidentally kicks someone’s car or rips a gate off. Here in Ontario Canada I use the OEF (Ontario Equestrian Federation) for some of my coverage.

Finally respect the horse the owner and the facilities you are riding at. The horse community is a tight one you do not want a reputation for being a difficult or uncooperative part-boarder. Treat people and horses the way you would want to be treated and you’ll be fine.

Good luck and have fun

Steve Wawryk

Part- Boarding a horse, is it time?

Most people who get into riding usually start their equestrian journey off with lessons. You sign up for riding lessons an hour one day a week, just long enough to leave you eagerly waiting for next week to roll around hoping to build upon what you learned the week before. This goes on for a while and for some it is all the riding they need to satisfy their horse fix. For others it starts to grow a little frustrating, you feel your riding isn't progressing quickly enough. You may become frustrated with doing the same lesson week after week when all you really want to do is get out and ride a horse the way you want to where you want to.

If this is how you are feeling it may be time to look at part-boarding. Part-boarding, sometimes referred to as leasing is a great way to increase your riding time and skill at an affordable price. Basically part-boarding is having limited access to a horse without having to purchase one. Most agreements allow the part-boarder to ride the owner’s horse on prearranged days. The other days are allotted for the owner or other riders access to the horse. Every agreement is unique but the ones I have been involved in had the cost of maintaining the horse( i.e. board, vet, food, tack) falls on the shoulders of the owner all I had to do was pay the monthly fee agreed upon.

I really like part-boarding, it allows you to get in a lot more riding and helps you figure out if horse ownership is the right decision without having to make the expensive mistake of buying a horse and deciding it's not for you.

In my next blog I will discuss the pitfalls and things to look for when getting into a part boarding agreement.

Steve Wawryk

Beat the February Horse Blahs

Winters in Canada can be very long and arduous for the horse owner. If you don't have a riding arena the snow and the cold can really limit the quality and quantity of your rides. Don't get me wrong I love riding on those nice sunny winter days with a fresh powder on the ground but those days are far and few between here in southern Ontario. Most days we are dealing with deep snow, icy conditions, very cold weather or just a very bleak cloudy day.

I'll stop there before I depress everyone reading. Here are ways to help the horse starved rider make it through February without going completely mad.

I like to take this time to start to plan my activities for the summer, a quick cruise of the internet can help me plan out the horse shows tack sales and charity rides and clinics I will attend in the coming months. You will be amazed how quickly your calendar will be filled with horsey events and it gives you something to look forward too.

This is a great time of year to go over my tack and check for any repairs that need to be made. You might as well have it fixed now, better to have it and not need then need it and not have it.

Nows the time to clean out the tack room and get rid of those old unwanted items. Kijiji, eBay or tack auctions are great places to get rid of these items and give you some extra cash to go and buy something else.

February is a great time to start to get back in shape for the riding season, do some stretching lift, light weights or a bit of yoga, remember riding is a physical activity the better shape you are in the better off you will be able to ride.

February is also a good time to set some riding goals. Maybe you want to learn to rope or teach your horse to spin or improve your jumping. Whatever it is now is the time to lay out the plan to achieve this. No horse or person is ever too old or too smart to learn something new; besides it keeps things interesting for you and your horse.

If you can't get away for a 2 month riding vacation in Argentina why not pick up a horse training video, you will be amazed at the selection and different training philosophies out there. One may hold the secret to the break through training method you have been looking for.

Hope this helps, remember only 6 weeks until spring.

Thanks

Steve Wawryk

My favorite horse training tool... the fence.

You might be thinking how can a fence be used to train a horse; simple the fence or arena wall acts as a barrier and helps direct or change the direction of a horses feet when worked in combination with your riding cues. Let me explain how it can work.


Say you are working on your horses stop but he seems to be walking out of it, ride him straight towards the fence as you approach the fence or wall apply your cues for the whoa, the closer you get to the fence the more likely your horse will want to stop on his own in order to avoid hitting the fence. Not only do you have your voice seat and hands working for you and the added assistance of the wall to help you bring your horse to a stop. Like everything else start off slow and build up, be prepared for your horse to try to duck out to the side so keep him between your legs.

The fence is also great for teaching rollbacks and sidepassing. For the sidepass ride your horse towards the fence at a 45 degree angle keep your leg on him. Once he has ridden all the way up to the fence he will have nowhere else to go but to move sideways away from your leg, remember to keep that leg on and give him somewhere to go by taking the other leg off.

The rollback works the same way, come in at a 45 degree angle ask for a whoa. As the horse slows down and starts to come up under himself use your leg and rein aids to turn the horse into the fence back towards the same direction you rode in from. Once you feel him make the turn on his back end release the pressure and ride out. This really teaches a horse to get under himself and explode out of the turn. Make sure to work both directions and not to over do it. Once they get the hang of it at a 45 degree angle try doing it parallel to the fence then eventually without any assistance from the fence.

Fences can also be used to help teach a horse to load in trailers and to move out straight.

Hope this helps

Thanks

Steve Wawryk

www.horselife.ca

Teaching a horse to ground tie

I'm of the opinion one of the best things you can do for you and your horse is to teach them to ground tie. Two reasons I like to teach horses to ground tie is for convenience and safety. We have all been there, we are up on our horses and realize we dropped something or we forgot something in the barn or trailer. It may be you need to tend to another rider or adjust someone’s tack, whatever the situation it may require two hands and be in a location where there isn't enough room or be safe to have a horse around.

I should clarify what I mean by ground tying. For me ground tying is having your horse stand in one spot when a lead rope, or rein is on the ground or they have been told to stand. They should respond by not moving whether you are in the saddle, 10 feet away or out of sight. I include being in the saddle because sometimes you may drop a rein or lead and believe me stepping on a rein can be hard on your tack, your horses mouth and your body. Ground tying can also save you from a long walk back to the barn. If you accidentally come off your horse hopefully they will stop when he sees the reins on the ground.

Teaching them to ground tie is easy but requires persistence and commitment on your part.

Here's how I do it; I take a horse into a safe relatively confined area where they cannot run away, (a paddock or sand ring will work) with a lead and halter on. I drop the lead on the ground and say "stand" I then let go of the lead and take a step back. Your horse will usually follow you at this point this is when you grab the lead and back them up to where you asked them to stand and say "stand". Keep repeating if they take a step. When they do stand for a few seconds walk over and tell them what a good horse they are. Gradually increase the distance and time but make sure to correct them the second they take a step. Eventually you should be able to walk around them, pick up their feet and even walk out of their site.

Another easy way to teach them to ground tie in combination with the method I mentioned earlier is to have a lead rope attached to the halter while they are in the cross ties. They associate standing still in the cross ties with having a lead on the ground.

This is a very simple thing to teach but the convenience of not having to constantly hold or tie a horse is well worth it.

Cold weather care for the arthritic senior horse.

If you are anything like me getting out of bed is always a little tougher in the morning. Those old sport and riding injuries seem to flare up a little more with the cold damp weather. Your horse is no different; horse’s especially senior horses usually have some form of arthritis.


When I refer to senior horses I am referring to horses 15 years and older. At 15 horses enter a catabolic state, this is a fancy term for aging where muscles bones and cartilage break down faster then they can repair.

You cannot cure arthritis but you can do things to help slow down the process and even provide relief from the pain associated with sore joints.

The biggest piece of advice I can give in treating a horse’s arthritis is to turn him out. Standing around in a stall or small paddock doesn't allow a horse to move as nature intended him to do. Moving keeps cartilage lubricated and relieves the constant pressure of standing in one place. My 18 year old gelding (who has arthritis) does much better on 24 hour turn out then he ever did in a stall even in these cold damp Ontario winters.

If I see that the horse is moving pretty good I put him to work. A little bit of exercise is good, maybe half an hour to an hour 2-3 times a week. I like to pick up their feet and stretch their joints and flex them before I ever get on. Once you’re up and in the saddle start out with some walking 15 minutes should do the trick. Once your horse seems to be moving more freely you can ask for some more speed. If you are riding outside try to keep the work a little slower then you would in the summer. I do this for two reasons, one the footing may be icy and he may slip and pull something or worst yet he falls on you. The other reason for not working too hard is you won’t have as wet a horse to cool out when you get back to the barn. When you do get back to the barn cool him out with blankets and rub the legs and joints down with some liniment.

I goes without saying make sure your horse has plenty of good food water a soft place to lie down and an adequate shelter to get out of the wind, rain and snow.

Light riding throughout the winter will help keep your horse limber through the winter months and cut down on the reconditioning time when the warm weather and competition season arrives

Thanks

Steve Wawryk

Slowing down a chargey horse.

One of the biggest complaints I hear about peoples horses is that they won't slow down. The second you give them a loose rein they speed up. I know first hand what this is like, for years I had trouble slowing down my horse. I partly blame myself for causing the chargey horse problem because every time I got on my horse I raced around. When I first started to ride it was all about going fast.

Once I learned that being a good rider wasn't always about going fast I set about to correct the problem. The problem can be corrected but will require a lot of work and discipline on your part; it may take a week or even three but believe me it can be done if you follow this simple rule:

Lots of one rein stops. The second your horse begins to go faster then you want him to go do a one rein stop. I also like to flex them in between each stop to stretch them and teach them to give to the bit, halter bosal whatever you are riding in.

Timing is the key here, the second they move the slightest bit quicker then you asked one rein them and circle them around, when they stop moving and give to the pressure release your hold. I then like to flex them to each side just to reinforce the giving and release of the pressure. Try to get your horse’s nose to touch your foot and release when they give. Work through all gaits but be careful not to pull your horse around too quickly and throw them off balance.

I find this exercise very effective for the horse who likes to rush back to the barn. Doing this exercise on your way back will really slow them down. Just be sure to ride off in the opposite direction from the barn after each correction. Ask for a walk back home and don't quit until you get it. I know this seems like a lot of work and it can be but in the end you will have a more patient, supple horse.

thanks

Steve Wawryk

The thrift store rider, money saving tips for horse and rider

In my last blog I mentioned ways to save money on horse supplies by looking for products outside tack stores for horse related items.  I mentioned I made a wool cooler from a blanket I bought from a thrift store.  Today I'd like to share with you some other cost saving tips. 

I am always amazed at what you can find at the dollar store, It has a lot of items you can use around the barn and for your horse. One of my favorites are leather wipes.  Although they are geared towards cleaning car seats you can use these to quickly clean your tack at a show without having to haul out the bucket, cloth water and cleaner.  One quick wipe and you are ready to go.

Another good find is tape, duct tape and electrical tape are readily available at all dollar stores.  Duct tape can be used for hoof packs and emergency tack repairs and electrical tape is great for doing up show or wrapping polo pony tails.  You can get three rolls for a $1.00 in multiple colours.

If you are lucky you can also find decent combs and brushes for combing out manes for a $1.00.  Make sure they are tough enough to stand up to the job.

If you like to feed treats to your horse check out the candy section, you can buy a big bag of mints for cheap.  I have yet to find a horse that doesn't like mints but make sure they brush after.

Clear plastic containers can also be found at the store, they are great for organizing your tack and make things easy to find.

My brush bag came from the dollar store. It is a garden tool bag.  It has lots of pockets to store brushes and takes up little space.

First aid kits can be replenished, on the cheap, things like band aids,wraps, scissors, ointments, creams, rubbing alcohol and hydrogen peroxide can all be purchased there.
These are just a few ideas I will come up with some more in later blogs
Thanks
Steve Wawryk

The Thrift store rider. How to save big money on equestrian supplies.

Now you are probably wondering why is a guy who sells tack for a living telling us to save money on equestrian products by shopping at a thrift store.  I am wondering that myself but long before I ever owned a tack business I was a horse owner.  I would go into tack stores and wonder why are those scissors 5x more expensive then at a regular store or why is this leather cleaner so much more then the one I bought at the department store.  There are a bunch of reasons for the inflated price: overhead, purchasing power, brand names etc. but the bottom line is you can get the same or similar items at other stores for a fraction of the cost. Using a little imagination and creative thinking can also save you money.  Remember never compromise the safety of you and your horse to save a few cents, but don't be fooled into thinking your horse will like you any less because you bought a comb at the dollar store rather then at the specialty tack shop.

 I will not skimp on are items directly related to me and my horse's safety.   Try to buy the best tack you can afford.  Buying a saddle, halter, bridle, bit or pad that doesn't fit or in bad repair just isn't worth the savings or risk of injury.

Over the next couple of blogs I will show you some ways I have saved a few bucks by buying horse supplies at the thrift or dollar store.

Here is my $6.00 wool cooler. I bought a 100% Scottish wool blanket at the thrift store and a few plastic vise clamps from the dollar store.  This wool is thick and warm and very safe. If the blanket slips and the horse steps on it the clamps will simply let go and be free of any strap.  I figure if this blanket is good enough to put on someones bed it is good enough to cool out a sweaty horse.
Thanks
Steve Wawryk

Cooling out a wet horse who winters out 24/7

As much as I tell myself I am not going to get my horse all sweated up I just can't seem to help but find myself galloping across the snow covered fields.  I always end up riding a steaming horse back to the barn. 

Now if you are like me and keep your horses out 24/7 you worry about turning out a wet horse and catching a chill in that cold winter air.

Let me say my horse does have a large shed he can get out of the wind and snow and access water and hay and bedding  anytime he wants. It is important horses have some where to go even if it is into a wood lot to get away from the wind.

Now back to the sweaty horse. The first thing I do is untack and dry my horse off with a towel.  Be sure to get their legs and go against the lie of the hair.  This allows more air to get at the coat and keeps hair from freezing together.  Next I give him a good curry, again the point of this is to prevent wet hair from lying flat agains the skin.  I work very hard and fast at this for two reasons; one it helps me warm up and two it is not good to have your horse standing around wet.  Next I throw a wool cooler on him.  Wool is excellent at wisking away the moisture from the coat and providing warmth at the same time.  Lastly I let him eat some hay.  Eating hay is vital in getting the gut working and generating heat.  I spend the hour or so cleaning up or handling some other horses and by the time I'm done the horse is dry enough to take the wool cooler off, and leave to their own devices.

My next blog I will give you some cost saving ideas on tack and equipment.  I know I certainly need them after my wife gets through with the Christmas shopping.

10 reasons to ride in a treeless saddle.

Everyone one loves top 10 lists.
#10 They are light weight and easy to lift.
#9   They allow your horse back to flex in all gaits.
#8   They don't restrict your horses shoulder.
#7   They can adjust to your horses back as his shape changes.
#6   They work on those hard to fit round backs.
#5   They can be used on multiple horses this means you save $.
#4   You can feel the movement of your horse and helps you get in sync with them.
#3   Sizing isn't as important so as we change the saddle can accomodate us.
#2   They are warm in the winter and cool in the summer
#1   They are comfortable for you and your horse!

If you are interested in trying out a treeless saddle check out my website and read about my free saddle trial offer, or host a clinic at your riding facility. 

Email me with any questions you may have

www.horselife@execulink.com and be sure to check out my website http://www.horselife.ca/

Thanks

Steve Wawryk

Bridleless Riding! Are you Crazy?

Last night I was surfing on Youtube and came across Clinton Anderson doing some Bridleless riding.  I don't impress all that easy but I watched in amazement as he put his horse through a reining pattern.  You may have also seen Stacey Westfall do this bridless and bareback, if you haven't you have got to check it out your jaw will drop.

Like a lot of you out there I am always looking for new ways to challenge me and my horse.  So this morning I went out and decided that me and my horse were going to learn to ride bridleless.  I consider myself a bold rider but not a stupid one so I am starting with baby steps.

I put on a Horselife Ropehalter/bitless bridle combo and a neck rope on my trusty but very forward and energetic horse Chopper.  For a neck rope I used a 6ft lead line tied around his neck. I jumped up on him bareback and rode him into the paddocks.  Now my horse works pretty good bitless so I figured I would have that as a backup in case things were not working with the neck rope and I could use it to reinforce what I was asking with the neck rope. 

when I first started out my horse wasn't quit sure what to think but after a short time and some reinforcing with the halter he was catching on.  I was able to do rollbacks, steer fine, back up and do  a decent stop( still could be better).  I was  very surprised how well it worked. I rode him in the same style I would if I had a saddle and bridle using the leg cues and shifting my weight and mimicking the had movements I do when neck reining.  I hope to be riding bridless by the time spring hits I will keep you posted on my progress. 

If you are looking for something new to try give bridless riding a shot.  Remember to work up to it and be safe.

If you are interested in buying a Horselife bitless bridle halter combo you can get them on ebay just type in horselife or email me and we can make other arrangements

www.horselife@execulink.com

Thanks

Steve Wawryk

No more frozen water tanks. Your horses will thank you.

For those of you that live in a warm climate you can skip over this tip but for those of us battling the winter weather and freezing temperatures you might want to read this. 

Keeping water from freezing is a real concern for many of us.  Horses need their water just as much in the winter as in the summer so it is vital we keep our stock tanks from freezing over.  Here are a few tips that might help in the battle of the frozen water tank.

If electricity is around try using a tank heater they simply plug in and heat the water enough to keep it from freezing, they come in several styles and are easy to use and maintain. They can get expensive to operate. Count on adding about $120.00 to your hydro bill for the season.  Another electrical device you can use is an aerator.  Basically it is a pump that sits in the bottom of your tank and blows water and air up to the surface the warmer water from the bottom and the movement created keeps the water from freezing , kind of like a creek that doesn't freeze over because of the constant motion.  This is less expensive then a heater but can get messy if the tank water level gets too low. 

Things you can do that don't require electricity are covering most of the tank with a board, only allowing a small section of the tank exposed so the horses can stick their muzzles in to get a drink. 

Place a floating object in the tank. The movement of the object along the surface can stimulate the water enough to keep it from freezing.

Insulate the tank.  You can do this by building an outshell around the tank with some plywood and 2x4's.  Fill the gap inbetwen the shell and the tank with foam insulation then build a lid with a small hole for the horses to drink out of.

Another way to insulate is to bury the tank below the frost line. This may or may be feasible depending on where you live and the depth of the frost line.

The idea I really like is to build a solar box around the tank.  You do this in the same manner as the insulating box but with a few little changes.  Firstly the tank should be painted black and a clear panel of plexiglass built into one side of the box.  The clear side should be facing the southern exposure.  Build a lid with a small opening for the horses to drink out of.  In order to retain most of the heat seal the box with a caulking sealant.

Good luck

Steve Wawryk

Don't let the snow keep you from riding.

Well the dreaded day had arrived.  I woke up this morning to wet snow on the ground and from what the forecast says I am in for some more.  You would think after some 42 years of ontario winters I would get use to it but unfortunatekly I am one of these people that grin and bare it for the next 4 months.  The only saving grace for me are those sunny winter days wen I can get out and gallop across a snow covered field.  One of my most memorable rides have been riding in the snow racing a jack rabbit along a fence line.  Needless to say after the rabbit grew tired of us he took off across the field and was gone in a blink of an eye.

Now riding in the snow can be a little tricky here are a few things to keep in mind when venturing out. 

• Avoid sharp turns and small circles, I have had horses fall on me because they caught some ice under the snow and slipped trying to lope a circle.
• Be aware of the footing, try to avoid ice as much as possible, don't be afraid to dismount and check the footing yourself.
• Stay off lakes and ponds, especially if you have winters with freeze and thaws, you don't want to break through the ice at best you will get very cold and wet , worst case an empty stall and place at the dinner table.
• Try to avoid deep snow drifts.  I once went out with a person who's horse got bogged down in deep snow and we spent 1/2 hour digging them out, the horse was cold and I was tired.
• Avoid getting your horse too wet, especially if they don't have a warm stall to dry off in.
• Improve your horses traction by keeping snow from balling up. One way to do this is allow the sole to grow thick so there isn't much of a pocket in the hoof.  Another trick is to spray PAM or any not stick cooking spray on the sole of the horses hooves.  This keeps the snow from sticking.
• Slow down and ride in areas you are familiar with.

Get out and have Fun

Steve Wawryk

Any questions or comments email me at horselife@execulink.com